Saturday, December 5, 2009

portrait artists

    I have to tell you I have gotten several commissions through the web site! It's so exciting!!! People are finding me through


Google searches for portrait artists . Thank you so much! I am thankful for


finding your site last year. I cannot tell you how grateful I am!!! My business has really taken off!!! -Pam Jaffe



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JSR Solution

birthday gifts


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birthday gifts
Items and exclusive hampers specially made for the birthday of your special



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JSR Solution

discoloration to marble from fireplace heat

I have a black marble fireplace surround on a ventless fireplace which gets very hot. The surroung at the top of the opening has become discolored and looks grey. Is there anything I can do about this?
Thanks,
Susan   

pet portraits uk

    
Many people use a visualization meditation where images are used to help focus like


pet portraits images . There are many types of meditation


images that can be used.



Thanks

JSR Solution

Friday, December 4, 2009

KUBIX STONE- ERP Package for stone industry



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  Rising Solutions presents KUBIX Stone, a unique ERP solution for the stone industry. KUBIX Stone, the state-of-the-art ERP solution for the stone industry like Granite, Marble and others, understands the problems faced by you in your day-to-day business operations. With the objective of addressing your pain areas we focused our expertise of 40 man years in developing KUBIX an ERP solution that can consolidate data from different sources, minimize inventory investment, reduce repetitive data entry by 60%, improve raw material recovery by 12%, improve analytics and MIS reporting by 69% and more.

Toxicity of Rainforest Green/Brown

   Hi. I've been reading the archives of this forum and have learned a lot. Odd question though: I was googling "rainforest" and saw one fabricator (or maybe it was a designer) who mentioned that rainforest has toxic minerals such as cobalt in it. They are in very small quantities, but they decided not to use it for this reason in a kitchen. Is there anything to this?

Other than that, the impression I get is that the rainforest (serpentinite) won't scratch (?) and isn't as easy to stain as marble. We would really like to use it in a kitchen, but would rather find out now if there is something I am getting wrong about this stone.

Thanks for any comments!

executive portraits

    It is our main goal to make photographs more memorable and any special event more fun with the styles and techniques of our


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JSR Solution

Many chipped edges on new marble foyer floor tiles

    We just had a fairly expensive ($7,000+) marble foyer installed. The centerpiece tiles are 6x6 crema marfil surrounded by 3" black strips (nero marble I think). There is no grout as the tiles are closely spaced.

   Almost all of the tiles have small chipping along the edges that makes the edges look "rough" but this is not the worst thing. The big problem is that about 50% of the tiles (both the crema marfil and black) have chips that extend into the face of the marble. These chips range from 1/8" to 1/4" and several tiles have multiple chips.

   The tile provider has told us that these chips are normal and part of the "natural beauty" of a hand cut marble tile floor. It honestly doesn't look that way to me, but I would really like to be fair so I am seeking other professional opinions on how acceptable this is.

   We have tried adding grout (black grout for black, color-matched grout for the crema marfil) but the grout is very visible and doesn't solve the look problem in my view.

    I know that I could hone the marble (its highly polished now) and that would probably make it much less visible, but would also detract from the otherwise stunning effect of the floor.

    So, what is an acceptable level of chipping? At what point should I insist on a redo?

hardwater stains

We have Osage granite in our restroom vanities. They have been down for 20 years. We have some white, hardwater stains that we would like to remove. Is it safe to use a product like CLR? Please advise. Also, I have heard of using a razor. Will that leave scratch marks, & if so what is best to buff them out?

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Looking for cream limestone by Cesarstone

    I love the Cesarstone quartz in cream limestone ( color) I just found out they discontinued it 3 months ago.

We need a 50 inch x 60 inch piece. Any idea where to find this as a remnant??
Thanks

Sealing a wine cellar floor...Scabos

Hi Folks,

I've searched this site to see if anyone has previously asked this question...I can't find anything.

I'm just completing the installation of a wine cellar in my basement. We have used Scabos as the floor covering.

All of the information that I have read about sealing stone in wine cellars / painting wine cellar walls have said to use only water based sealants.

The contractor who is installing the stone has told me that it doesn't really matter if the sealant is water based or not.

Does any member have any experience with sealing stone in wine cellars, and if a water based sealant is the way to go, could you supply me with any brand names? (as I'm having difficulty finding any up here in Canada)

Thanks!

Jaff   

Travertine marked by shower cleaning product

    We recently purchased a new house that has travertine tiles laid in the foyer and wet areas ie. bathrooms and laundry. I had some drops of a shower cleaner fall onto the floor in the bathroom and it seems to have etched the tiles where the cleaner dropped onto the floor. So that it now has marks on it in the shape of droplets. The cleaner bottle states that "shower Power" contains a mild natural plant acid combined with a rich surfactant system plus natural frangrance extract. No chlorine, ammonia or phosphates.

What type of chemical in the cleaner would have caused this? Is there a way to remove these marks?

What is the best way to clean travertine tiles.

White marks in small cracks of marble floor

Glad I found this great forum.
 
I could use some help in diagnosing the cause of the white markings on this marble floor.  Apparently a Mexican version of a Pine-Sol type product (possibly Pinalen) was used to clean the floor.  This product I think has a high pH (alkaline, not acid).  Now I can see what appears to be a bleaching-type discoloration (whitening) affect around the small cracks in the marble that run perpendicular and diagonal to the natural veins in the stone.
 
Could the Pinalen be the cause, and is there a possible cure other than replacement (the owners hate these white markings)?
 
 

BASEMENT STONE WALLS

hello,

my husband and a friend are talking about doing something to our basement walls. they are stone (my husband says limestone) anyways, they are talking about cleaning them by either sandblasting or powerwashing them. I would like some advice as to which method would be the best way. they want to clean them because the stuff is coming off (kind of gritty stuff).

thanks,
Chinix

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Marks appearing INSIDE granite

   Hi, we had Marron Cohiba countertops installed in our kitchen a couple of weeks ago. I might be being paranoid (as I keep 'inspecting' it!) but I think I am noticing marks appearing INSIDE the granite. The granite is a mixture of blacks and browns and bronzes (best way I can describe it) with a few small fissures running through it, it is also known as Antique Brown I think. Well anyway, there are a few areas where there are white-ish marks appearing inside the granite (not stains on the surface). A couple of them even look like they might have a greenish tinge to them (like when mold forms). I can not explain it any other way but I don't think it was like this when it was first installed. The marks are about small fingernail sized or smaller (not uniform shape) and look like the stone is changing / has changed inside. Hope this is making sense? Anyway, anyone got any advice or experienced this before? Don't know what it could be. The installer sealed the granite so don't think it could be something from the top surface penetrating down. Could the stone change once installed? Any advice welcome, even it is from another owner of Marron Cohiba who explains this is normal with this stone and I just didn't notice it before! thanks!!

stains on marfil

Hi, My husband has spilt tea on my new marfil fireplace any ideas on how to clean it.
zev

Cleaner

Can someone advise if Swiffer is ok to use on our new Black Granite flooring?

Stain or Dye granite?

I have a piece of granite in my bathroom thats  white/gray/black.  Is there anything I can do or use to stain it permanently darker?  I'm ideally looking to put it in to the gray/black tones and get rid of the white.

I've looked all over and haven't found much, other then negative references to "doctored stone". Does anyone know of a possible solution besides buying a new slab to replace it?


Current color looks like this....


Marks appearing INSIDE granite

[QUOTE=june78]   Hi, we had Marron Cohiba countertops installed in our kitchen a couple of weeks ago. I might be being paranoid (as I keep 'inspecting' it!) but I think I am noticing marks appearing INSIDE the granite. The granite is a mixture of blacks and browns and bronzes (best way I can describe it) with a few small fissures running through it, it is also known as Antique Brown I think. Well anyway, there are a few areas where there are white-ish marks appearing inside the granite (not stains on the surface). A couple of them even look like they might have a greenish tinge to them (like when mold forms). I can not explain it any other way but I don't think it was like this when it was first installed. The marks are about small fingernail sized or smaller (not uniform shape) and look like the stone is changing / has changed inside. Hope this is making sense? Anyway, anyone got any advice or experienced this before? Don't know what it could be. The installer sealed the granite so don't think it could be something from the top surface penetrating down. Could the stone change once installed? Any advice welcome, even it is from another owner of Marron Cohiba who explains this is normal with this stone and I just didn't notice it before! thanks!! [/QUOTE]
 
Hi June,
 
Interesting problem you have...
 
It would be helpful if you have a picture showing the problem with the stone, although with this said, I have come across a problem in the past with granite where there was some sort of chemical reaction that occured with the stone sealant and some cleaning products, where white marks where forming on the stone.
 
If you have a picture that I can have a look at, this would help me to make a better judgement..
 
Ciao ciao Wink

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Fountains - To seal or not to seal in hostile apps

Where have all the experts disappeared to? Anyone going to touch this question? Come on, don't be scared!

Travertine Filler for Shower Walls

Thanks for this GREAT forum!

We have purchased unfilled, very light-colored travertine for bathroom floors, to surround soaking tub, & for shower walls.

It is GORGEOUS & has beautiful, natural pocks, some quite large, which we love!  However, only afterward did we find out that for this wet environment, the pocks should be filled due to mildew concerns.  We put our tile installer on vacation until we find out the truth.  He was laying it as is--UNFILLED & unsealed--then was going to only seal it. 

Another *expert* examined the area only to say that the unfilled travertine in the shower would not pass inspection if we sell the house, since it would / will grow black mildew.  I'm afraid to invite anyone else in for a third opinion!  I don't believe that CERTIFIED TRAVERTINE EXPERTS exist, so who to believe?  Obviously the expert right here! 

1)  Can we fill the pocks in the travertine that is already laid vertically & horizontally?  (No grout or sealer has yet touched our BEAUTIFUL stone, thank goodness.)
2)  If so, what filler should be used for this wet environment?  I read that a latex would be best?  (If that's completely wrong, sorry...)
3)  After filling with the appropriate travertine filler that is best for wet environments, should we or should we NOT seal?  I believe the answer is NOT???  (Just making sure...)
4)  I want to keep the area perfect & use the proper products for bath floor & shower wall (sealed or unsealed) travertine.  What, how & how often? 

This is a wonderful learning experience...just glad we're asking BEFORE any damage is done!

Thanks SO MUCH in advance,
Traver_Tina
ps. my name really is Tina Wink

Vessel sink

Hello I plan on installing a travertine vessel sink in the bathroom and I heard that I will need to seal this sink is if so what product will I have to use

Fountains - To seal or not to seal in hostile apps

I transport, set-up, and maintain water features in my business.  The vast majority are concrete (or cast stone as the retailers call it) and it is pretty straightforward.  I am encountering more enormous limestone fountains now that Pierres & Terres de France has a local importer.  In Washington state, we have extreme temperatures in hot summers and cool winters.  It is milder here on the west side, but it is wet and can dip to freezing during 3 or 4 months.

The overall question is related to sealing.  I understand Maurizio has a pretty strong and straightforward answer for natural stone outdoors and it makes sense.  But what about in applications either submerged or regularly exposed to water, and also what about concrete?

What I have learned:
The concrete fountain industry overwhelmingly recommends sealing their products.

What I agree with:
Considering that many of these items are painted or stained (whether or not that is smart in the first place is a different debate,) a sealer applied and reapplied annually prolongs the inevitable fading of the finish.  Also, properly applied sealer stops or slows down freeze damage.  Some customers simply will not winterize their fountains, and the sealer seems to penetrate or at least hold together the very fine layer that would otherwise crumble and expose the aggregate underneath when the ice collects on the edges or finer points.  But in a constant submersion environment, especially with water beating down in places, it quickly "goes away."  So, it isn't armor, but it helps, kind of like wax on a car I guess.

What I dont agree with:
A panacea solution.  "Just seal it" is the mantra from the people selling it, but not actually experiencing it. If it works on their garden gnomes, it must work on their fountains.  Sealer is not waterproofer how they make it sound.  Only the most labor intensive way of applying a sealer will make it even close to how they (fountain retailers) say it will work.  This means two or 3 coats on each piece before assembly (you will not get 100% coverage of the inside of a bowl after there is a pedestal placed in the center.)  And during assembly minimizing abrasion where pieces are moved into place.  Easier said than done.  As an installer, we can do it, but forget a first time customer doing this.  For that matter, many customers who purchase concrete have somewhat of a budget and are not willing to pay us the extra 3 to 6 hours and wait for an extra day for the above mentioned process.  So we have resolved ourselves to passing on the recommendations from the manufacturer to the customer to limit liability, and hope for the best. :(  If they can't get reliable sealing close to where the problem area is, the water will migrate  from the uncovered spot and cause the damage anyway.

The only time we have ever made anything 100% waterproof is by applying a firestone rubber liner (ugly) or elastomeric (less ugly) to the inside of a basin on a larger job.  This is not practical aesthetically and near impossible on a $2000 or less 3-teir generic fountain where every piece is small, curved, and visible and tiling over will not work.

I am still experimenting with this.  Now, onto new territory for me:

LIMESTONE

How can I be the best possible option for the customer when it comes to limestone fountains?  I would like to carry my knowledge forward, but limestone, and other natural stone is a different beast.  As mentioned, I have read Maurizio's posts along with some other people who at least appear to be experts and once again, I would say I agree for the most part about outdoor stone.  But my applications involve fountains of solid limestone block mortared together in either a constantly submerged (in the basin) or heavily exposed to water otherwise.  Seal just the inside?  Seal inside and out?  Don't seal at all???

The manufacturer recommends a brush/spray on liquid (they cannot include in the containers shipped to U.S.) but it sounds like any other "penetrating" high V.O.C. sealer.  They say inside and outside and reapply once per year.  Sounds familiar to me!

If this was a concrete basin, I could apply any of the tools in my bag of tricks to COVER the inside with a 100% waterproof membrane and go home knowing there will never be a call-back.  But when the original integrity of the stone under all that water has to be maintained, what now?  I am beginning to think that if they want it to be so natural like days of old, than they had best prepare for the problems of that time ... water migration at grout lines, effloressence/mineral deposits where the water sneaks out, etc.

One more thing, FREEZING damage.  I would think a sealer is important.  I have personally seen 4 limestone statues (four seasons ladies) where each one had a small part of her face fall off over two years of freeze thaw here in Seattle area.  Granted they were above a water pond, but not directly exposed.

After all that crap above, it is a lot to chew on so let me summarize:

In spite of the prevailing opinion for outdoor stone, what about my fountain applications?

Concrete fountains:

1.  Seal or not for (a) finish protection and (b) freeze protection

Limestone fountains:

2. Sealant for (a) waterproofing (submersion or otherwise) and (b) freeze damage.

I bill myself as the local expert in my area, and if I am going to do so that means going beyond repeating something I read in a flyer or what someone heard from their dad's cousins foundation layer's son's fountain salesperson.  These people depend on me.  End consumers and up the food chain.  I recieved phone calls from two contractors for the same job 600 miles away about how to handle an install in their area.  Help me back up what I say and put an end to this debate!

Thanks!!!

honed slate is gritty to the touch

    I've had a honed vermont green slate kitchen countertop for about 3 years. From the very beginning it has always felt as if there has been a layer of grit or sand on top, even after I have washed it. It isn't sealed. It seems to be completely non-porous and has very few scratches, but within seconds of my cleaning it (with a stone cleaner or just water and a microfiber cloth) it feels gritty again. When it was installed the fabricator did say they had a hard time honing it-however it does feel flat and even - just with a light coating of powder on it all the time. Does anyone have any idea what causes this and what I can do about it? Thanks!